The explorer

At long last I'm working on a mosaic knitting project. I've been interested in using the technique beyond swatches for quite a few years but not until now did I come up with the right mix of ingredients.


Kose (Visjö wool from Östergötlands ullspinneri) is a favourite colourway of mine, changing gradually from brown to different shades of green - beautiful on its own but in my opinion even more so against a neutral background like very light grey. Got the colour combination. Pattern next.

Labyrinth pattern

Marianne Isager (ever read that name here before?) has designed quite a few garments using mosaic knitting and slipped stitches, for example a child's sweater "Labyrinth" in her book Inca Knits. I always loved Greek key patterns, and this one works well with the Kose colour changes.

Rice fields pattern

For comparison I also cast on to try (a modified version of) Isager's "Rice Fields" from Japanese Inspired Knits, and must say I prefer it in spite of my love of Greek keys: the structure adds an element I like, and the overall effect will be a lot lighter. But what really made it an easy, practically natural, decision was the Japanese key word.

You see, I suddenly remembered why they named this colourway Kose: Chie Kose is a Japanese designer who asked the spinnery for this particular combination of these particular shades. Joining the two Japanese aspects felt like the obvious choice - and in my book a whiff of Danish never hurts.

Grafting "Viften/The Fan"

Grafting "Viften/The Fan", a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

I like avoiding seams as far as possible, not only because I don't like sewing, but also for comfort: why have welts at the back of the neck and under the arms if you can avoid them?

For this project I have learnt how to graft garter stitch. I have grafted stocking stitch before ("Kitchener stitch") and was happily surprised garter stitch was easier. Excellent instructions here. (Of course, this is a form of sewing too, but I don't mind it that much when the resulting seam looks like knitting.)

I have been asked how I modified the decreases knitting the border.

Here are the four kinds I've used:

1. "knit two together" for decrease to slant to the right.

2. "slip one as if to knit, slip one more as if to knit, put both back on left needle and knit them together through back loops" for decrease to slant to the left.

3. "slip one as if to knit, slip one more as if to knit,knit one, pass slipped stitches over the stitch just knitted" for a double decrease when the middle stitch is top of a purl ladder (to avoid a purl on top). You could simply knit three together (the knit stitch to the left would end up on top instead of the one to the right) but that decrease feels slightly more like a bump in my picky fingers' opinion.

4. "slip two together as if to knit, knit one, pass slipped stitches over the stitch just knitted" for a double decrease where the middle stitch end up on top of the other two.

Same but different

Here's the first "Viften/The Fan" I knitted a couple of years ago (blue bourette silk) and the third one I'm currently making (yellow merino wool) for comparison. There are a few differences apart from colour and fibre:

1. I decided to cast on a lot more loosely for a more pronounced scalloped edge.

2. There is an extra row (purls on the right side) to make the edge curl slightly.

3. Border pattern two repeats instead of three (to save yarn to be on the safe side).

There are sleeve modifications too:

1. Border five repeats wide instead of four to make the sleeves less narrow. This will make modified raglan shaping necessary, but I've decided to wait with calculations until I get there.

2. Sleeves knitted in the round to avoid a seam. When I get to the armholes I will start knitting back and forth for the raglan shape, though.

3. The instructions allow you to choose between short and long sleeves, but these will be medium length instead (like the previous one I made).

What else?
I'm quite excited about a twined knitting workshop I will be leading at Litet nystan in a few weeks! Equally exciting is planning a couple of lace knitting workshops with GarnGalleriet in Uppsala in October - will write more details about that when we've made more decisions.

Viften/The Fan no 3

Viften/The Fan no 3, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

I've surprised myself by casting on a project practically identical to one I just cast off. Fair trade: I'm making this one for a colleague who's sewing me a shirt.

Any new modifications?

Anticipation...

Yes!
1. Border knitted in the round to avoid a seam at the back of the neck.
2. Border two repeats (see photo above) instead of three (photo here), partly simply for the sake of variation but primarily to save yarn. Each of the 28 repeats grows from 16 to 24 stitches wide. I think it looks nice this way too, and there's no need to worry about running out of yarn - and a couple of centimetres shorter will hardly make a difference.

Now over to some questions and comments on my previous post.

Ron: I picked up stitches around the armohole with a dark strand and wrapped with dark strands to keep the wraps from showing too much. (After discovering light wraps stand out a lot more.) I believe Alba is a Gaelic word for Scotland. (Incidentally, it is also Latin for "white" which is hardly the first thing that comes to mind when you see Starmore's design!)

Ann: it's difficult to explain why I had to turn it upside down, but I'll give it a try! The pattern itself is symmetrical, in a way that if knitted in two colours only there wouldn't be a problem. The colour sequences are symmetrical in a different way, though: a particular colour would be at the beginning of a pattern shape instead of at the end, for example. (Perhaps it wouldn't show much, but I didn't want to risk it. And it was a challenge I liked.)

Knitgoddess: I ordered a kit from Virtual Yarns. The colours are not identical to the ones in the book (and I believe the yarn is slightly thicker too) but at least they're Alice Starmore's own choice. Where can I see your "Pacific" sweater? Ravelry?

Isager's Viften/The Fan finished

Viften/The Fan, a design by Marianne Isager, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

Seamed, blocked and handed over to Åsa. The size was right for her, and she was happy with the modified sleeve length! Turned inside out it looks like this.

I'm quite obsessed with Alice Starmore's "Alba", knitting like mad. (A phenomenon not particularly uncommon...) I've modified it by shaping the armholes to make it a little bit less too big (see earlier post) and will modifiy the neck too; I want it slightly deeper and narrower than the original design. How I wish the photo captured the colours! The gorgeous hints of different greens are lost, for example.

Alice Starmore's "Alba"

Today is the last day of my summer vacation, so I'd better make full knitting use of it. Actually, it's my birthday too: I'm going to treat myself to extra extra knitting time! How old? 38. Really good age - my best so far!

Isager's Viften/The Fan

Isager's Viften/The Fan, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

Only seaming, darning and blocking left - and handing over to recipient, of course!

Yarn: BC Lucca Fino Tweed, 300 grams.
Needles: 3½ mm (US 4).


Modifications in short:

• back and front sections knitted together instead of separately
• slip stitches on right side (easier to see when to make them)
• increases and decreases on wrong side (less visible)
• type of border pattern decreases changed for a smoother look and feel
• there is a choice between short and long sleeves, but Åsa wanted medium length; I’ve made them 90 rows long between border and armhole with increases 6 times every 6 rows and 5 times every 8 rows
• border and back of neck grafted (Kitchener stitch) instead of three-needle bind-off to avoid a welt
• an extra stitch added at each side for selvedge, and I’ve slipped the first stitch every row with yarn in front and knitted the second one

I also cast on a lot more loosely than in my first version of this design for the scalloped edge to be more pronounced, and I added a first row (purls on right side) for the edge to curl slightly.

If I make it a third time I will knit the border in the round to avoid a welt where the edges are seamed.

First sleeve done

Isager's Viften/The Fan in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

There's a choice between short and long sleeves in the instructions; Åsa (who will get the cardigan) and I agree it would be nice with medium-length sleeves.

Here's my modified sleeve size if anyone's interested:

1. There are 90 rows from border to armholes.
2. Increases every 6 rows 6 times, then every 8 rows 5 times.

I've been adding to my collection of works in progress, starting Alice Starmore's "Alba" sweater. Stranded colourwork is really what I like best when it comes to techniques, especially knitting a pattern like this. You just can't beat her sense of colours - unfortunately, this photo does not do them justice.

I can't remember when I was this excited about a project last: it's a thrill seeing it take shape in my hands.

The only thing I can't understand is Alice Starmore's tension! I don't knit particularly loosely (don't think I've ever had to change needle sizes to get the gauge called for) but in this case I get 24 instead of 28 stitches per 10 cm (4 in) even though I use thinner needles, 3 mm instead of 3.25 (US 2½ instead of 3).

I could go down one more size but feel the sweater will be too stiff for my taste if I do. Instead, I'm following the directions for a size smaller than I want - and it will still be a bit too big!

Now, I love Alice Starmore's designs and would love to meet her and thank her in person for everything I've learnt and been inspired by - but judging from her tension I would hardly let her massage my shoulders ;-)

"The Fan" construction

Isager's The Fan/Viften in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

This is what it looks like folded into proper shape;
makes me eager to start knitting the missing sleeves!

Late last night I finished the raglan-shaped back section from the armholes to the back of the neck. I think Marianne Isager's construction is ingenious!

The border is to be seamed and then attached to the back. I think I will graft the pieces (Kitchener stitch) instead of a three-needle bind-off to avoid a welt. For the same reason I will probably knit the border in the round if I make it again.

Frogging and knitting

Isager cardigan (Viften/The Fan) in progress, a photo by Asplund on Flickr.

My stitch itch returned last week and full force too! What better way to celebrate than to start yet another project?

There was a turning point when I decided to frog a project I felt I wouldn't be pleased with if I finished it and knitted a couple of swatches to check gauge for different kinds of patterns and needle sizes.

Suddenly I remembered I had ideas how to modify an intriguing cardigan design by Marianne Isager that I knitted two years ago, "The Fan" from Japanese-inspired Knits.

Modifications:
1. Different border pattern decreases for a smoother look and feel (attempt to illustrate in photo above).

2. Back and fronts knitted together instead of separately to avoid seaming. If I make it a third time I will knit the border in the round to avoid a seam at the back of the neck.


3. Casting on a lot more loosely for a more pronounced scalloped effect than in my first version. I also used the cable cast-on method instead of the long-tail method and added a row (knits knitted on the wrong side) for the edge to curl a bit more. This may also be seen in the photo above, at least if you know about it!

4. Adding a row between border and main sections. This entailed making slipped stitches on the right side (easier to see when to make them) and decreases on the wrong side (looks smoother from the right side) instead of vice versa.

5. Adding an extra stitch for a selvedge, starting each row by slipping the first stitch with the yarn in front.

What else to say about this project? The yarn is lovely Lucca Fino Tweed from BC, and I use 3½ mm needles (US 4). 

"The Fan" cardigan: finished

"The Fan" cardigan
Originally uploaded by Asplund

There is a choice between long and short sleeves, so I started knitting the short ones to be on the safe side. Almost done with the first sleeve, I thought there wouldn't be enough yarn for the second one after all; therefore, I decided to make them even shorter. (Not that much, perhaps 5 cm or 2 in.)

I always find it difficult to figure how much yarn will be needed (Ravelry has made that easier) and short raglan sleeves was simply impossible! At least I didn't have to rip out much.

The cardigan is for my friend Elisabeth, who introduced me to Marianne Isager's designs and yarns some fifteen years ago. I hope the size is right!

More pictures:

What I like best about this project is that I found the right use for the yarn. It was so annoying not having used it to its best advantage but not knowing what to knit instead! If I may say so myself, I think the yarn and this design are a great match – and hopefully Marianne Isager wouldn't mind my modifications too much. A man's got to do what a man's got to do.

ETA Errata (I believe)

1) right front rows 4-14: Rep Rows 1 and 2 should be Rep Rows 2 and 3 (p. 35)
2) left front rows 4-14: Rep Rows 1 and 2 should be Rep Rows 2 and 3 (p. 38)
3) left front row 71: k2-55 (64) st rem should be k3-55 (64) st rem (p. 38)
4) Shape Raglan Sleeve Cap: Work 3 rows even, then rep dec row 1 (5) times. Here I'd like to add that the dec has be sl1 k2tog psso the first (fifth) time instead of “k2tog, work in est patt to last 4 st, k2tog”. (p.41)

The Fan: progress

"The Fan" WIP, back and right front
Originally uploaded by Asplund

I didn't expect this to be such a quick knit; I've finished the back, and am half-way through the second front piece. I just hope there is enough yarn for both sleeves!

Perhaps that's why I'm speed knitting - to finish as much as possible before I run out of yarn? (I'm not always logical when it comes to knitting!) Anyone who recognizes this behaviour? Please?

I must say bourette silk bears reknitting extremely well. After all, I frogged the vest after two years, but that yarn isn't much different from what was left unused. Still, I do hope there is enough to finish this cardigan so I don't have to frog and reknit once more.

Recycling

"The Fan" is one of several intriguing designs in Marianne Isager's gem of a book Japanese Inspired Knits.

Increasingly (ha ha...) eager to knit it I suddenly remembered an almost finished vest in a suitcase in my mother's basement (sounds like an episode of “Prime Suspect”) that I’ve been doing my best to forget for some two years, but was suddenly happy to remember now. A yarn bonus!

The vest looks better than I thought – but not good enough to finish. I tried it on, but even though it is actually comfortable I'm not likely to wear it, partly because I prefer wearing wool to bourette silk, material I hadn't worked with before and was curious about (and I couldn't resist the colour). What's more, I don’t like how it turned out enough to give it to someone else. It's a good thing I didn't weave in the loose ends!

Would you believe it, even though this yarn is nothing like what the instructions call for and I used slightly thinner needles to knit a swatch, I got the right gauge! What could I do but cast on the real thing?

For photos of a beautiful finished "Fan" cardigan, check out Dances with wool.

Three books

I haven’t been knitting much the past couple of months. Therefore, I thought I’d write a few words about my first impressions of the latest additions to my knitting library, three books that arrived in the mail last week.

There are so many knitting books and magazines these days I actually find it rather difficult to decide what to get! Who would have thought that only some ten years ago? I at least used to buy almost anything about knitting, since there simply wasn't much to choose from. Fortunately, I got all my grandmother's knitting books, as nobody else was interested in them. What I didn't realize at the time was how rare some of them are and how lucky I am to have them.

To return to my new books, what I like best about Traditional Scandinavian Knitting by Sheila McGregor is the abundance of pattern charts, which I'm sure will come in handy in the future. Also, a Scandinavian myself, I find it interesting seeing what is presented as typically Scandinavian, and it's a treat discovering new (old) pattern shapes that can be used in garments of one's own. Personally, I do like connecting with the past by making use of traditional elements.

A Gathering of Lace is a very rich book with a lot of variety in terms of garments, styles and skill levels. Not to mention tastes! The “Points of Departure” chapter is easily my favourite section, and my favourite design is "Mediterranean Lace" by Maureen Egan Emlet. The border is absolutely beautiful and the shape of the garment seems very functional in addition to being elegant. I will probably knit it some day.

Saving the best for last, I have now added Japanese inspired knits by Marianne Isager to my list of top favourite knitting books. (Hold kæft, hvad flot! to use an expression I'm fond of, one of the few phrases I know in Danish.) Her attention to detail is simply amazing, and I am in awe of her ability to blend shapes, patterns and techniques into a whole.

For example, the more I study “The Carp”, the more I notice in it: to name just a couple of things, how the shape and pattern of the sleeves blend with the body, and how a triangle is added to one of the mitered squares to form a wedge under the arm. Exquisite. Pictures of different designs here: Knotions magazine.

I first came across Isager’s immense talents ca 1995, when my friend Elisabeth asked me if I would considering knitting her a sweater – she already had the instructions and the yarn and all she needed now was a knitter. (If I remember correctly, her mother was supposed to have knitted it, but couldn't for some reason.) It wasn’t difficult to accept, since I loved the design. Unfortunately, since I hadn’t seen a knitted version or pictures of one, I misunderstood the charts and knitted dark lines on light background instead of the other way around. My second Isager design was “Fingre” (fingers), which I have knitted twice, in 1998 for myself and for my sister in 2006.